Amadeo's website

Temperature

Regular PLA

Temp: 200–215°C Cooling: ~100% fan from layer 2–3 onward

Silk PLA

Temp: 215–230°C (5–15°C above regular) Cooling: 40–60% fan — lean toward the low end on an enclosed printer like the Core One Use overhang/bridge-specific fan boost rather than raising overall fan % Too much cooling → grainy/dulled finish instead of gloss

Translucent PLA

Temp: 215–230°C, toward the higher end of the PLA range — more heat improves layer fusion, which cuts down internal light scattering and boosts clarity Layer height: go thinner (0.1–0.15mm) — fewer/smaller air gaps between layers means better light transmission Cooling: low, similar to silk (~40–50%) — aggressive cooling roughens the surface and re-introduces scattering/cloudiness Print speed: slower than regular PLA — gives layers more time to fuse before solidifying, which matters more here than for opaque materials Design considerations: thin walls (often single-wall/vase mode) and 0% infill for backlit parts — infill lines show through and kill the translucent effect Outer wall temp bump (if your slicer supports per-feature temps): pushing just the visible perimeter a few degrees hotter than infill gets a glassier finish without over-melting the bulk of the print

Matte PLA

Temp: 190–205°C (lower end of PLA range) Cooling: ~100%, same as regular — helps lock in the matte texture Under-cooling → faint glossy patches (opposite failure mode from silk)

Wood-fill PLA

Temp: 195–215°C, lower-middle of range — higher temps scorch the wood particles Cooling: 80–100% Nozzle: 0.4mm minimum, 0.6mm+ preferred; hardened steel if used regularly (mildly abrasive) Print speed: ~60–80% of normal PLA speed Retraction: moderate, not aggressive (reduces carbonization buildup) Moisture: dry before printing if filament’s been out of a dry box >1–2 days

Other settings

TPU - reduce stringing

Wood-fill stringing fixes